CLIMBING NEWS
Moel Y Gest Quarry Sport Routes...
PRODUCT NEWS
Pete Robins
Q: Age and number of years climbing?
A: 28, been climbing 28 years.
Q: Where were you born and where is home now?
A: Born in Sheffield, live in Llanberis now.
Q: If you had to write a brief climbing CV what would your ‘top ten’ best routes or boulder problems be and why?
A: Liquid Ambar (F8c/+, 4th ascent, Lower Pen Trwyn, Llandudno)
This is the hardest route I have done by far. Mentally, it pushed me to the limit. It was an eye-opener as to what can be achieved if you put your mind to it. It felt easy when I did it which just shows that the sky is the limit in terms of difficulty.
The Finger of Fate (9 pitch E6 6b, first free ascent with Ben Bransby, Utah)
It felt so good to fly over to America and climb such a prized and stunning first free ascent, right under the Yanks’ noses! A true team effort with Ben because we needed both of our strengths to get up it. I will always remember the feeling of elation, and disbelief, as I ran up the final 4c pitch to the summit.
The End of the Affair (E8 6c, 4th flash ascent, Curbar, Peak)
To climb this route was my childhood dream and my first real ambition. I waited and waited but never top-roped it, knowing that one day everything would feel right. When it did, after about 10 years of waiting, I was confident and it went smoothly.
Zero (E7 6b, on-sight, Suicide Wall, Cwm Idwal, Ogwen Valley)
In contrast to the patience showed on The End of the Affair, this route represents the naivety of youth. I chose to commit myself to a position where I was out of control, facing a fatal fall where I had to dig deep and climb myself out of trouble. A great route and great experience, but I wouldn’t recommend it!
The Quarryman (E8 6c, 6b, 6c/F8a, 7a second full ascent, Twll Mawr, Dinorwig Slate Quarry)
This is just a really awesome route, it’s got everything; the first pitch is run-out and scary, the groove pitch is stunning and a completely unique climbing experience and the crux is saved for the top. Every climber that can should have this route on their list.
Monkey Journey to the West (E7 6c, 6b, 6a first ascent with Ben Bransby, Mount Sion Central, Range West, Pembroke)
It took Ben and me two weekends, 10 years apart, to do this amazing adventure-route. It’s really inconvenient, needing sunshine and low tides in the afternoon, and also a MoD permit. It’s hard for a trad route, with a powerful first pitch through a roof and a mind-blowing and arm-sapping middle pitch in the centre of the most impressive crag in Britain.
Masters Edge (E7 6b, ground-up 2nd go, Millstone Edge, Peak)
What a line! Another childhood dream route that I saved for the ground-up approach. I got a real confidence boost from this; in 2007, after a period of little improvement in about 5 years, I did this route. I was unfit and got pumped but pressed on to the scary last move and went for it, no jibbing. I’ve got better and better ever since.
Silk Cut (V14/8B+, second ascent, Parisella’s Cave, Llandudno)
Real power endurance all the way and as hard as Liquid Ambar. I spent a lot of hours in Parisella’s Cave over 2008 and 2009 which culminated in this monstrous link. I had no idea I was capable of such a feat but when it happened, it opened up a whole new world of climbing possibilities.
Misericorde (V10/7C+, Franchard Cuisinière, Fontainebleau)
Amongst thousands of immaculate boulders and perfect climbs, Misericorde is the most stunning of them all in Fontainebleau; a high and bold rounded prow, proudly taking centre stage at Cuisinière. If there is anything that was meant to be climbed, it is this.
Pool of Bethesda (V12/8A+, fifth ascent, Cromlech Boulders, Llanberis Pass)
This is the hardest move I’ve done, English 7c. I can’t repeat it; you have to really want it like the first time. When I was working the move through the winter of 2008, I forced myself to power scream at the top of my voice, knowing that I was the only soul in the valley. In the end a silent approach worked - seems like the raaaa-technique only works for Sharma!
Q: There are many disciplines within climbing, but some folk believe: ‘Jack of all trades, master of none’. What say you?
A: Jack of no trades, master of them all!
Q: How do you split your climbing time between the different aspects of climbing/mountaineering, be it bouldering, trad, sport, DWS, winter, alpine, big walls or snowy mountaineering and how does this vary through the seasons?
A: It seems to be more physically based these days, split between bouldering and hard/safe trad and sport climbs. I still like the odd trouser filler too though, just not every day!
Q: Top three favourite crags and why?
A: Mount Sion Central, Pembroke – most impressive crag in Britain, one for the future.
Fontainebleau – best crag in the world, the only place I think I would never get bored.
Burbage Valley – a bit of everything, grit-wise; good bouldering and big scary routes.
Q: Do you have any heroes, climbing or non-climbing?
A: Not really, I’m not much of a hero worshipper.
Q: Most impressive/inspiring ascent you’ve witnessed?
A: Ben Bransby nearly on-sighting Impact Day (E8/9 6c on Pavey Ark, Langdale), Caff on most things he tries, Leo on a trip in the Czech Republic onsighting everything they threw at him.
Q: What is the narrowest margin you’ve experienced between success and failure?
A: 0.0000001 second.
Q: What is your biggest fall?
A: 30ft to the deck, 100 ft through brambles – ouch!
Q: Top three favourite books/authors?
A: I don’t read.
Q: Top three favourite bands or musical artists?
A: Toots and the Maytals
The Felice Brothers
Bob Marley
Q: Who are your regular climbing partners, and what is it that you like or dislike about climbing with them? (Go on, spill the dirt!)
A: I climb with Rach (my partner) a lot; it’s great to see when she decides to try hard.
I’ve climbed with Caff (James McHaffie) loads, which is always good fun and makes me try hard.
I’ve climbed with Ben Bransby loads too, but we don’t seem to have the same competitiveness as I have with Caff so it’s often quite relaxed (which means we are often a bit slack!).
Recently I’ve climbed loads with the Orme crew which are great, regular as clockwork and share a same goal – get stronger!
Q: Who was your mentor/who influenced you most as a young climber?
A: I climbed with my dad and Graham Parkes mostly on the grit, who both encouraged me to progress and gave me lifts out to the crag (and bought me beers afterwards)! Later John Allen took me under his wing and we did first ascents from his back log of last great lines on the eastern edges. This was a brilliant apprenticeship.
Q: Who or what gives you inspiration these days?
A: Routes. If I’m lacking inspiration, I go out and try loads of routes and the inspiration comes along pretty quickly.
Q: Top three favourite pieces of DMM kit, and why?
A: The Buggette – simple, light and safe.
Phantom krabs – really light, awesome for trad.
4CU’s – again, really light which is everything for trad, although I haven’t got any of the new Dragons yet…
Q: If you could do it all again, would you do it differently, if so, how?
A: No regrets, I’d probably end up living exactly the same life as I do so no point going back.
Q: What training, aside from just climbing a lot, do you do?
A: Sit ups, dead-hangs, dum-bells, dieting.
Q: Top three favourite climbing guidebooks?
A: 7+8, Cloggy by Paul Williams, Slate by Ground Up (due to be published in 2009)
Q: What other interests do you have outside climbing?
A: General life, Rach.
Q: Other sponsors?
A: Prana, Metolius, Five-ten, PODsacs
…and a few easy, quick fire choices:
Q: Camper van or tent?
A: Camper van
Q: Wine or beer?
A: Weise beer
Q: Flapjack or custard cream?
A: flapjack
Q: Apple or banana?
A: Nectarine
Q: Tea or coffee?
A: both
Q: Dogs or cats?
A: dogs
Q: And lastly, catch phrases: Frank Sinatra’s was “I did it my way”, Eric Morecombe's was "What do you think of the show so far?” What is yours?
A: No one likes a winner
(Photo: Si Panton)