CLIMBING NEWS
Dorys Scalp for Nick Bullock...
PRODUCT NEWS
Nick Bullock
Q: Age and number of years climbing?
A: To old to remember my age and to old to remember when it all started.
Q: Where were you born and where is home now?
A: Home is wherever I happen to be climbing at that time. Go back to question one for where I was born.
Q: If you had to write a brief climbing CV what would your ‘top ten’ best routes or boulder problems be and why?
A: My top ten best routes would be the ones I have had the best adventure on with a mate and got out alive.
Q: There are many disciplines within climbing, but some folk believe: ‘Jack of all trades, master of none’. What say you?
A: Definitely.
Q: How do you split your climbing time between the different aspects of climbing/mountaineering, be it bouldering, trad, sport, DWS, winter, alpine, big walls or snowy mountaineering and how does this vary through the seasons?
A: My climbing is dictated by the seasons and my motivation. If it's cold I wear gloves and several jackets and climb ice or in the hills… if it's warm I wear shorts, a chalk bag and go climb rock… And if the bird restrictions are off I go climb cheese and talc and slither in guano at Gogarth.
Q: Top three favourite crags and why?
A: North Stack Wall, Point Lachenal, Craig Doris… Deep rooted memories to be had at these venues where strength of mind, strong fingers, solid rock or thick ice is the best weapon to have hanging from your harness.
Q: Do you have any heroes, climbing or non-climbing?
A: More inspirational characters than heros. Ellen McCarthy, Shackleton and Ran Fiennes for their determination and drive. The more Joe Brown routes I climb the more respect I have for him… what a legend. Pat Littlejohn for his total unrealistic appreciation on how crap everyone else is when he grades routes.
Q: Most impressive/inspiring ascent you’ve witnessed?
A: Most of the ones I’ve backed off and then Caff has cruised… And in winter the same thing but substitute Caff with Neil Brodie.
Q: What is the narrowest margin you’ve experienced between success and failure?
A: That last glass of red wine before the bottle is done.
Q: What is your biggest fall?
A: That last glass from the previous question.
Q: Top three favourite books/authors?
A: Cormac McCarthy (the Border Trilogy), Iain Rankin (all of the Rebus stuff), Mark Twight (Kiss or Kill).
Q: Top three favourite bands or musical artists?
A: Too many of them but the Chemical Brothers, Prodigy and Pendulum do it for me when I’m training. Dj Shadow, Groove Armarda, Zero 7 and other chill out type stuff when I’m not training.
Q: Who are your regular climbing partners, and what is it that you like or dislike about climbing with them? (Go on, spill the dirt!)
A: Caff, Tim Neill, The Pimp, (Ian Hey), Neil Brodie, Kenton Cool, Matt Helliker, Andy Houseman, Jon Bracey, Dan McManus, Noddy (Dave Noddings), Streaky Desroy (The Old Hippy), Jude Spancken, Pete Benson… I hate em all for being better, nicer people than me, and I love em all for the same reason.
Q: Who was your mentor/who influenced you most as a young climber?
A: Never had one… just started by on-sight soloing routes both in summer and winter.
Q: Who or what gives you inspiration these days?
A: My mate Mark Goodwin gives me inspiration; he’s a poet and a writer who has edited my book for no cash. No matter what, he sticks to his guns with his writing and refuses to dumb it down or bend to pressure to change his writing into what someone else thinks it should be.
Q: Top three favourite pieces of DMM kit, and why?
A: Chris Rowland, (what a star).
The computers in the office that I frequent often and everything that is made in the factory in Llanberis.
Q: If you could do it all again, would you do it differently, if so, how?
A: Start younger by going back in time.
Q: What training, aside from just climbing a lot, do you do?
A: Circuit training, running, cycling, weight training, wine drinking, bullshitting.
Q: Top three favourite climbing guidebooks?
A: Gogarth. Lleyn. Neige, Glace et Mixte.
Q: What other interests do you have outside climbing?
A: Writing, drinking red wine, reading, music, watching films on planes, speaking straight.
Q: Other sponsors?
A: Mammut, Vasque, Crux, Segrifrido coffee, Rosemount Estates wine (preferably shiraz) Citroen or any other make of van who will donate one please… ok, apart from the first three the rest are hopefuls!
…a few easy, quick fire choices:
Q: Camper van or tent?
A: Citroen Berlingo.
Q: Wine or beer?
A: Derrrr! Think this is obvious.
Q: Flapjack or custard cream?
A: As if… body is a temple!
Q: Apple or banana?
A: Passion Fruit!
Q: Tea or coffee?
A: Derrrrr!
Q: Dogs or cats?
A: What!!
Q: And lastly, catch phrases: Frank Sinatra’s was “I did it my way”, Eric Morecombe's was "What do you think of the show so far?” What is yours?
A: Opinions are like arseholes, everybody has one.
(Photo: P Benson)