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Dorys Scalp for Nick Bullock...
PRODUCT NEWS
Jude Spancken
Q: Age and number of years climbing?
A: Age: 33. Years climbing: 13.
Q: Where were you born and where is home now?
A: Born in Germany but I have lived in the UK ever since starting university in Aberystwyth in 1996. I am currently sharing my time between the UK and Chamonix in France.
Q: If you had to write a brief climbing CV what would your ‘top ten’ best routes or boulder problems be and why?
A: (Not in order of preference – I don’t have a favourite route as such but the below ones I all associate with very special memories for various reasons….and there are many more…)
Serpentine (29, Taipan Wall, Australia)
Because of the location and beauty of the line; the absolute perfectness of the moment when topping out, with the sunset behind me and only me and my friend Josh belaying around for miles.
The Pink Power Tower (E5 6a, Greenland)
Doing my first First Ascent of a long multi pitch route in a remote place together with my boyfriend Mat; the moment I did not enjoy however, was when being scared to my limits climbing into the unknown, past a horribly loose flake with nothing but a rock 1 protecting me.
Lord of the Flies (E6 6a, Dinas Cromlech, North Wales)
One of the lines I looked up at for a long time before feeling ready and because it felt so calm and right when finally doing it.
Any boulder problem in Squamish, one of my favourite bouldering areas in the world next to Fontainbleau.
La ligne noir (F8a+, Bionassay, France)
Psychologically I always find it hard entering a new grade, no matter whether trad or sport. A lack of belief in my own ability I guess….so, ‘La ligne noir’ was important for me, realising I there is more room to improve.
Echoes d’alpages (F7a+, Grand Capucin, Chamonix)
An incredible position to climb in, with some very exposed pitches.
Cemetary Gates (E1, Dinas Cromlech, North Wales)
A route I never ever get bored of and my first E1.
The Vanishing (E6, Dorset)
A magic and as I remember incredibly pumpy DWS with very funky moves, a real journey.
Antiworlds (E5 6a, Deep Zawn, Lundy)
A beautiful location. Wild, technical pitches in a very atmospheric deep zawn, climbing to the sound of several howling seal pups.
Duroxmanie, (6C, Fontainebleau)
A problem I saw and immediately wanted to climb but at the time wasn’t really ready for it, but I tried and tried and tried…and one day topped out with a big smile on my face.
Q: There are many disciplines within climbing, but some folk believe: ‘Jack of all trades, master of none’. What say you?
A: I do think that in order to excel at a certain discipline in climbing it helps to fully focus on it. Look at the best sport climbers, the best mountaineers, the best boulderers…not many of them mix it up all the time. But then again… some disciplines go well together I think. Ice climbing and trad for example, or bouldering and sport climbing. But it’s pretty hard to be an exceptional high altitude mountaineer and boulderer at the same time. But of course there are always exceptions. Also, I think in order not to plateau at one discipline it helps to mix it up a bit….it really depends on the person I guess….
Q: How do you split your climbing time between the different aspects of climbing/mountaineering, be it bouldering, trad, sport, DWS, winter, alpine, big walls or snowy mountaineering and how does this vary through the seasons?
A: It really depends where I am and how much time I can get off work. In the UK I definitely trad climb more than anything else. It has to be the best country in the world for trad climbing so might as well make use of it. When in France where I am renting a place at the moment I sport climb a lot and do the occasional mountain route in summer. Anything to do with ice, winter and snow I tamper with, but always come to the conclusion that for me climbing really is about touching and moving on rock. Bouldering is something great when little time after work or when too cold to belay. My climbing is very unstructured because I never quite know where and for how long I will be working next.
Q: Top three favourite crags and why?
A: To limit myself to three is impossible!! But if I really had to:
Cromlech, North Wales; such an impressive piece of rock, beautiful lines at all grades in a very condensed space.
Squamish, BC; great crack climbing, multi and single pitch, bouldering and sport climbing in a great relaxed atmosphere all in one small area. A place where it is easy to forget time… until the rain comes…
Ceuse, France; for sport climbing…I love the style of climbing, the views, the walk in, the language…
but there are so many more…
Q: Do you have any heroes, climbing or non-climbing?
A: I guess I have never been a hero person. I admire certain people for having such a clear direction in life and to fully focus on what they are doing…and hence achieving great things. But I can’t really think of anyone I have as my hero. But then again, I admire Lynn Hill for having the vision to free the nose or Catherine Destivelle for her solo ascents….
Q: Most impressive/inspiring ascent you’ve witnessed?
A: Only recently, watching Mat, my boyfriend and climbing partner onsight the most improbable looking flared overhanging mountain granit crack on a multi pitch route called Fou d’aguille.
Q: What is the narrowest margin you’ve experienced between success and failure?
A: The questions sounds like it demands a dramatic answer which I can’t give, but maybe trying to onsight the Spiders Web at Gogarth which I think is E5 6b, a route going through this big cave. I tried so hard, then fell off touching and almost holding a very big jug when finally moving onto the less steep and easier wall. I am a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to onsighting and once I have fallen off I hardly ever try a route again (in trad climbing that is).
Q: What is your biggest fall?
A: So far probably in Yosemite on a route called Butterballs, a (for me) rattly finger crack. When I fell quite high up, a cam ripped (not a DMM one by the way) and I ended up head down just above my belayer Leanne. No idea how far it was though….I had whiplash for days…
Q: Top three favourite books/authors?
A: Favourite again… that’s so definite, final…
But I tell you what I have read recently and really liked…
City of Thieves; brilliant, humorous, upsetting and funny at the same time.
Shantaram
A Suitable Boy
I think Zadi Smith is brilliant. I have so far enjoyed all her books
Q: Top three favourite bands or musical artists?
A: This one I just find impossible to answer…I love music and the variety of music is so vast….
I can tell you what I don’t like: Heavy Metal, Punk and German Folk music.
Q: Who are your regular climbing partners, and what is it that you like or dislike about climbing with them? (Go on, spill the dirt!)
A: I climb with a lot of different people and don’t have a regular climbing partner as such. Some friends I prefer to sport climb with, because that is what they are into, others are super trad climbing partners such as my friends Leanne Callaghan or Nick Bullock. I also climb a lot with my boyfriend Mat but I find it often better climbing with my friends and not my partner. There has to be a definite connection…I only climb well if I can fully trust and get on with my climbing partners.
Q: Who was your mentor/who influenced you most as a young climber?
A: Andrew Wilochowski. He introduced me to climbing when I came to the UK from Germany for an exchange year. He was a chemistry teacher at the school and he ran the climbing club. He introduced me and other students to climbing in a most beautiful, traditional and adventurous way. In my first year of climbing I was leading routes on Lundy, climbing chalk cliffs in Dover and doing winter routes in Scotland. It was a definite cross road in my life. After the year I decided to move to the UK and ever since, climbing has played a very important role in my life.
Q: Who or what gives you inspiration these days?
A: The vast amount of climbing areas I have not yet visited, both in the UK and abroad.
Q: Top three favourite pieces of DMM kit, and why?
A: The Shield because it has to be the safest and sexiest quickdraw around.
Walnuts because that’s what I would go nowhere without, and the Sentinal screwgate for its universal use.
Q: If you could do it all again, would you do it differently, if so, how?
A: Looking back at my life so far, at the things I have done and places I have visited, I am pretty content I have to say. Hopefully there will be more of the same in the future.
Q: What training, aside from just climbing a lot, do you do?
A: Again, due to my irregular work pattern all over the place it would be very hard to get into regular training. I guess that is something I would like to try, to be in one place for a while where I can climb outside a lot but also train indoors to see what it would do to my climbing. Apart from that I try to generally stay fit by running and cycling, stretching and eating super healthily.
Q: Top three favourite climbing guidebooks?
A: Lundy, The little black slate guide, Tremadog
Q: What other interests do you have outside climbing?
A: Photography, travelling, music, moving about in nature whether its running, walking, cycling…I’ve also just tried surfing for the first time proper and loved it.
Q: Other sponsors?
A: RAB
…and a few easy, quick fire choices:
Q: Camper van or tent?
A: Van!!!
Q: Wine or beer?
A: Wine.
Q: Flapjack or custard cream?
A: Flapjack.
Q: Apple or banana?
A: Banana.
Q: Tea or coffee?
A: Tea.
Q: Dogs or cats?
A: Cats.
Q: And lastly, catch phrases: Frank Sinatra’s was “I did it my way”, Eric Morecombe's was "What do you think of the show so far?” What is yours?
A: “enjoy”
(Photo: Spancken collection)