CLIMBING NEWS
Dorys Scalp for Nick Bullock...
PRODUCT NEWS
Jon Bracey
Q: Age and number of years climbing?
A: 32, 18.
2. Where were you born and where is home now?
A: Lambourn in Berkshire, Chamonix.
3. If you had to write a brief climbing CV what would your ‘top ten’ best routes or boulder problems be and why?
A: Rory Rum the Story Man (E5 6a, Dun Mingulay, Hebrides)
Ace day climbing with Pete Benson on an amazing island.
Bonatti-Vaucher (Grandes Jorasses)
With Neil Brodie. Bonatti’s last great climb and still hard today!
Arctic Discipline Wall (NW face of Mt Kennedy)
Did the first ascent of this 2000m face with Rich Cross, hard climbing and super remote - felt well out there.
The Voyage of the Beagle (E5 6a, Creag an Dhubh Loch)
Happy days camped by the lochan with the Bensons and climbing with Kenton Cool. Scariest bit was hearing Pete’s screams when he took a flyer off the rock-over the day before.
Snowboarding the NE face of Les Courtes
I’ll never forget the fear of putting in the first turn.
Moonflower (North Buttress of Mount Hunter in Alaska)
Best mixed route in the world.
Boivin-Vallencant (Grand Pilier d’Angle)
With Sue Knott. A stunning face, hard conditions, miserable bivi, and big relief on reach the summit of Mt Blanc.
1938 Route (Eiger north face)
With Matt Dickinson. Great banter and mountains of food on the bivi thanks to Dickinson.
There’s a Moose Loose Aboot this Hoose (ED4 first ascent on Moose’s Tooth, Alaska)
With Matt Helliker. Some of the toughest climbing I’ve done in the big mountains.
Q: There are many disciplines within climbing, but some folk believe: ‘Jack of all trades, master of none’. What say you?
A: Definitely true - I have the biggest respect for those who manage to excel in all disciplines.
Q: How do you split your climbing time between the different aspects of climbing/mountaineering, be it bouldering, trad, sport, DWS, winter, alpine, big walls or snowy mountaineering and how does this vary through the seasons?
A: During the last couple of years I’ve focused on ski alpinism racing during the winters with bits of dry tooling to keep some climbing fitness for the odd big route in the hills. In summers I work 6-7 days a week guiding in the Alps and boulder or sports climb after work when I can. In between I might be on an expedition or away sports climbing in Provence.
Q: Top three favourite crags and why?
A: Almscliff - great memories from university days.
Grandes Jorasses North face - the most beautiful face in the Alps.
Maladiere - mega steep 10 pitch bolted limestone routes 40 minutes from home.
Q: Do you have any heroes, climbing or non-climbing?
A: Patrick Berhault, Alex Macintyre.
Q: What is the narrowest margin you’ve experienced between success and failure?
A: In the big mountains success means coming home alive, so I hope the margin never gets too small. For big routes in the Himalayas then a healthy dose of good luck is often needed to tip the balance. It’s often about being in the right place at the right time.
Q: What is your biggest fall?
A: 50 foot off an ice route in Scotland with no ice, Bullock took an even bigger lob from a few moves higher!
Q: Top three favourite books/authors?
A: The Boardman Tasker Omnibus
Berhault
It’s not about the bike by Lance Armstrong
Q: Top three favourite bands or musical artists?
A: Salmonella Dub
Sasha
Groove Armada
Q: Who are your regular climbing partners, and what is it that you like or dislike about climbing with them? (Go on, spill the dirt!)
A: Has been good to climb with Matt Helliker- he is crazy motivated and trains very hard!
Bullock is great for his lack of tolerance, Kenton for inspiring self-belief and his strops, Al Powell is the most hungry and determined, and Jules Cartwright was such an inspiration - by far the most talented alpinist of my generation.
Q: Who was your mentor/who influenced you most as a young climber?
A: My Chemistry teacher at school, Jonathan Martin who helped me find my passion for the mountains. I owe him so much.
Q: Who or what gives you inspiration these days?
A: People who just get out climbing hard in the mountains with no fuss/media hype.
Q: Top three favourite pieces of DMM kit, and why?
A: Rebel axes - great all round axes that never let you down.
Phantom krabs - so light but reassuringly strong! Love the screwgates too.
The Dragon cams when I get some!
Q: If you could do it all again, would you do it differently, if so, how?
A: No regrets.
Q: What training, aside from just climbing a lot, do you do?
A: Loads of running, cycling, skinning on skis, roller skiing, circuit training and a bit on the finger board.
Q: What other interests do you have outside climbing?
A: Ski alpinism racing, back-country skiing and snowboarding, photography, road cycling, mountain running, yoga.
21. Other sponsors?
A: Patagonia, Scarpa.
…a few easy, quick fire choices:
Q: Camper van or tent?
A: Tent.
Q: Wine or beer?
A: Either.
Q: Flapjack or custard cream?
A: Flapjack.
Q: Apple or banana?
A: Banana.
Q: Tea or coffee?
A: Coffee.
Q: Dogs or cats?
A: Dog, have a mad jack-russell called Jess.
Q: And lastly, catch phrases: Frank Sinatra’s was “I did it my way”, Eric Morecombe's was "What do you think of the show so far?” What is yours?
A: Better sorry than safe.
(Photo: Bracey collection)