CLIMBING NEWS
Dorys Scalp for Nick Bullock...
PRODUCT NEWS
Matt Helliker
Q: Age and number of years climbing?
A: I’m 28 and have been climbing for 15 years.
Q: Where were you born and where is home now?
A: I was born in Bath in Somerset, and now live in Chamonix, France.
Q: If you had to write a brief climbing CV what would your ‘top five’ best routes or boulder problems be and why?
A: There’s a moose loose about thus hoose (ED4 First ascent, Mooses Tooth, Alaska)
Because it’s a first ascent and the first route of a great partnership (with Jon Bracey) and an awesome line!
Meltdown (ED3 First ascent, Mt Grosvenor, Ruth Gorge, Alaska)
Because before and when we arrived everyone was saying how bad conditions where, which would screw up our trip. Yeah right!!
Colton-Macintyre (ED3 Grand Jorasses, North face, Chamonix)
Top route, Top laugh and shared with Top mates.
Rustic Wall (E3 5c Split Rock, Wells)
This is where it all started for me aged 13.
Will Stanton (F8a, Cheddar Gorge)
Lots of effort, bad language from me and belay time from Sam, cheers mate.
Q: There are many disciplines within climbing, but some folk believe: ‘Jack of all trades, master of none’. What say you?
A: Alpinism is my passion, having to master Rock, Ice, Mixed and Skiing and doing this in the best style possible, fast, clean and light. To have to challenge myself hard, physically and mentally, and dealing with so many things: route finding, research, equipment, weather, different techniques, calculation and commitment. There is just so much more going on in alpine climbing to master, and just turning up at the crag won’t cut it!
Q: How do you split your climbing time between the different aspects of climbing/mountaineering, be it bouldering, trad, sport, DWS, winter, alpine, big walls or snowy mountaineering and how does this vary through the seasons?
A: Summer time: guiding in the Alps, cragging trad/sport as much as possible.
Winter time: guiding, Ice, Mixed, skiing, high mountain routes, expeditions all in between.
Q: Top three favourite mountains or crags and why?
A: Grand Jorasses, North Face - big routes, big commitment.
East Face of Mt Blanc du Tacul area - great for day hits with skis in winter; it has all types of routes to go at.
Ceuse - love the campsite, the walk up and the climbing’s not half bad!
Q: Do you have any heroes, climbing or non-climbing?
A: No Heroes!
Q: Most impressive/inspiring ascent you’ve witnessed?
A: Folk all over the world are doing great things, which are all impressive and inspiring in their own way and too many to list.
Q: What is the narrowest margin you’ve experienced between success and failure?
A: Have far too many of those to list; alpinism is very unpredictable.
Q: What is your biggest fall?
A: 50 footer, in Cheddar Gorge aged 16; it was the start of my apprenticeship. These days I don’t like to fall, far too serious to be doing this sort of thing new routing on some big alpine face.
Q: Top three favourite books/authors?
A: I’m not a massive bookworm. I like my climbing mags such as Alpinist, but one book that does it for me is, Mark Twight’s, Kiss or Kill.
Q: Top three favourite bands or musical artists?
A: Rage against the Machine
Pantyraid
Anne Mac’s, Mash Up! Into my Dubstep.
Q: Who are your regular climbing partners, and what is it that you like or dislike about climbing with them? (Go on, spill the dirt!)
A: Jon Bracey, Nick Bullock, Kenton Cool - all top lads, super fun to be with and the best alpinists the UK has, that’s why I climb with them! Which is important due to the fact that we spend a lot of time together, sometimes in tiny tents, ledges or coffee shops. Sorry no dirt, but if they spill it about me, they are all W*****s!
Q: Who was your mentor/who influenced you most as a young climber?
A: John Baker mentored me in my early teens; a legend in his own right. I was influenced by Mark Twight, loved his ideas, dreams and style, also the boys mentioned above, Bracey, Bullock, Cool, they where in the generation above me, so I always looked up to them. It just turned out that I luckily ended up climbing with them, being the new young gun! And for them to become my best mates.
Q: Who or what gives you inspiration these days?
I don’t need much for inspiration, I’m a very self-motivated and driven person!
Q: Top three favourite pieces of DMM kit, and why?
A: Rebel axe - wicked tool for mixed in the mountains, not just bomb proof, nuclear proof.
Phantom krabs - they feel great and are super light. It all makes a difference on day 3 on a big face, when you are having it!
The New Dragon Cams - the Boys have done it again, nice one!
Q: If you could do it all again, would you do it differently, if so, how?
A: No regrets, I love my life. If you don’t you change it, simple!
Q: What training, aside from just climbing a lot, do you do?
A: I am totally into my training, if I’m not climbing I’m training for it. If I don’t workout every day my mood’s not great. In sort of giving you a full training program I run/ski lots! Up hill as hard, fast and for as long as possible, if you are not puking after 1500m you haven’t gone hard enough! Weight training, circuit training on most days, it’s awesome for alpine fitness. Wall sessions, dry tooling, the lot. I have no problems with motivation.
Q: Top three favourite climbing guidebooks?
A: Mont Blanc Massif, Neige and Mixte, Vol 1 and 2
Cascades de Glace, Vol 1 and 2
Q: What other interests do you have outside climbing?
A: Don’t know what you mean by that, no one could ever have any other interests other than climbing! If you do, lack of commitment I think.
Q: Other sponsors?
A: Patagonia, Osprey Packs, Adidas Eyewear, Scarpa, Maximuscle.
Q: …a few easy, quick fire choices:
Camper van or tent?
A: Van.
Wine or beer?
A: Wine.
Flapjack or custard cream?
A: Flapjack.
Apple or banana?
A: Apple.
Tea or coffee?
A: Coffee for sure.
Dogs or cats?
A: Dogs, have one called Wooster.
Q: And lastly, catch phrases: Frank Sinatra’s was “I did it my way”, Eric Morecombe's was "What do you think of the show so far?” What is yours?
A: Man The F*** Up!
(Photo: Helliker collection)