14/01/2009Bullock & Emmett climb legendary route
11/01/2009Nick Bullock and Tim Emmett climb The Lyre (VI WI 7). Described in the guidebook as legendary, ice routes don't come much harder or more serious. The four deaths in the Cirque since their ascent highlights the objective dangers.
Combining Nick Bullock's drive and determination with the energy of the perpetually 'mad-for-it' Tim Emmett was always likely to result in something impressive. Teaming up in Chamonix just before New Year, they repeated the legendary Thierry Renault ice-route, La Lyre, in a long day. The 550 metre mighty VI WI 7 in the Cirque Fer a Cheval above Sixt was first climbed in 1992 by Renault, Denis Condevaux and Wilfred Colonna. At the time it was considered by many to be the hardest ice-route in the world. Bullock commented: "I'm not surprised Thierry gave up climbing and found religion at the end of that winter! There is no technical ice grade harder than seven." Whilst Bullock and Emmett were on the route ice debris from avalanches covered their tracks.
The serious nature of climbing in Fer a Cheval was underlined when on the 2nd Jan two local French Guides were killed (france-info.com) on the nearby route Folly de Droite (VI/6) by falling ice and last Saturday (10th Jan) two brothers from Haute-Savoie were swept to their deaths by an avalanche while abseiling (france-info.com) down a route in the cirque.
Here a few other notable ascents involving DMM's man in the Alps. On the 22nd December, Nick and Jonathan Baird climbed what they believe is a new route on the Pointe Lachenal in the Vallee Blanche, named Direct Hit M6 250m. The six pitch line crosses the route Hit Machine with the crux being the first at Scottish VI, 7.
Six days later, Nick was back at Mont Saxonnex with Neil Brodie, to continue their love affair with the icicle festooned cliff (see previous news item) and added The Thank God Conclusion (M6 WI 5), named with reference to its pokey finish and a play on Guy Robertson's and Pete Benson's recent awesome route, The God Delusion (IX, 9) on Beinn Bhan, Applecross.
For more background on The Lyre and the history of Cirque Fer a Cheval have a look at Lindsay Griffin's write-up over at thebmc.co.uk
Also check out Nick's blog for an account of his winter adventures - assuming the bandwidth hasn't been exceeded - perhaps there should be a whip round to buy him some more?
Photos
top: Tim Emmett on the penultimate pitch of The Lyre, Fer a Cheval. © Nick Bullock
lower: Tim Emmett approaching the final three pitches of The Lyre, with 400m of ice behind them. © Nick Bullock