02/12/2008First Winter Ascent on 'The Ben'

Rich Cross described their first day on the Saturday (22nd Nov) as: "Baltic with the buttresses nicely rimed high on the Ben, so we warmed up on the modern classic, Sioux Wall, on No. 3 Gully Buttress. Originally given VIII 8, it wasn't so bad really: steep and intimidating but good hooks and plenty of gear. Amazing climbing - a must do route!"

The pair were greeted on the Monday by a raging blizzard as they stumbled back up the Ben. Despite the savage conditions, Trident Buttress was reasonably calm and in stunning condition with a good coating of rime and fresh snow. Rich and Andy opted to try the first winter ascent of Heidbanger (with the Cranium Direct Start), a summer E1 giving 3 varied pitches.

Rich described the proceedings: "Andy bagged the first pitch, a fine overhanging crack leading to an off-width slot perched in the lip of an overhang – very burly and very awkward. Above, a steep exit from the cosy belay cave led to an intimidating blank wall. Veins of snow promised hooks and gear, but delivered only blank rounded seams – slightly disappointing! Thirty foot of teetering, thin hooks, long reaches, and spaced pro finally brought a blob of turf into reach – phew! Andy dispatched the final pitch in the dark, a time consuming combo of powder covered slabs, unhelpful blind grooves and hard won gear. Eight at night finally saw us abseiling down Megaroute X back to our sacks and the long trudge down. An excellent day's sport! Not too sure about the grade, but on Sioux Wall we had a later start and topped out at 3.30pm, so this probably says something about Heidbanger Direct….."

You would have excused them for having a rest day on the Tuesday but instead they settled for a shorter one and headed for Stob Coire nan Lochain and did East Face Route Direct (classic 6). Rich said: "It gave us some great climbing and fine situations, in the steep chimneys overlooking SC Gully. Awesome trip, can’t wait to get back up there!"

Photos:
Upper: Rich Cross hooking on Sioux Wall (VIII 8), Ben Nevis. © Andy Benson

Lower: The somewhat obvious line of Heidbanger Direct up the middle of the crag. © Rich Cross

More photos over at the Alpine Guides Blog.