28/09/2008Monkey Magic from Robins and Bransby

The talented DMM climbing team members, Pete Robins and Ben Bransby, were deservedly chuffed to recently complete a Pembroke project they first tried about 10 years ago, on the horizontally banded Mt Sion Central, Range West. Pete said: "Monkey Journey to the West is an amazing route on one of the most impressive and futuristic crags in Britain. We only managed a frigged ascent spread over two days on our first attempt. At one point on the second pitch, we both managed to get stranded on a ledge 120ft above the sea with no protection, where I accidentally smacked Ben in the face and knocked his glasses into the sea, making him virtually blind. I then had to solo down 6a ground to a runner and we retreated into the sea, before finally swimming to safety."

Although there was no such drama on this occassion, Pete commented: "Despite it being ten years on and hopefully finding ourselves ten years fitter, stronger and wiser, it was still tough and took us all weekend to get up it!" The route inconveniently has a pool of water at its foot and the first pitch gets sprayed at high tide by a blowhole in the platform, meaning it then requires sunshine to dry out. Below you can find the full route description Pete gave us.

Note: Range West is an army live-firing range requiring climbers to obtain a permit by attending a briefing. Full details at thebmc.co.uk

Mt Sion Central, Range West, Pembroke

Monkey Journey to the West  70m  E7 ***
An audacious expedition; the first to breach the central steepness of this futuristic cliff. A large rack and total commitment are required, together with the right conditions. Start at the left-hand end of the shallow pool, left of Wet Feet Wormhole and near a bore-hole in the floor which inconveniently sprays the first pitch during high tide. In addition, afternoon sun maybe required for the route to fully dry-out.
1. 15m. 6c. A powerful and awkward pitch through unlikely territory. Paddle in to beneath a hanging flake at 4m. Use the flake and a hidden pocket on the right to gain holds leading left to a hole/thread and crack beneath a roof split by two seams. Pass the roof with difficulty to reach a deep orange scoop beneath another roof. Step left and up to a mere vertical wall and trend rightwards round an arête and up to an orange flowstone belay, shared with Wet Feet Wormhole.
2. 40m. 6b. A long pitch of unrelenting difficulty but never technically desperate. Be prepared for big falls into space. Traverse left along the break for about 10m until it peters out. Climb up a vague groove to a slot and crucial cam 1 then move left to a break on the arête. Climb the shallow scoop on the left via distant breaks to a rest in the largest break (big cam). Traverse right for 3m then head up the white wall above to a break beneath the right-hand side of a roof. Move right and go up past a small ledge to a larger ledge and a disappointing belay.
3. 15m. 5c. A similar final pitch to the neighbouring routes, escaping rightwards through substantial looseness. There is a stake over on the right to belay but it might be safer to just sit far back.

F.A: Ben Bransby, Peter Robins (AL), 20th/21st September 2008.

Photos: Pete Robins on the second pitch of Monkey Journey to the West (E7 6c, 6b, 5c), Mount Sion Central, Pembroke. © Adam Long