23/06/2008New DMM Climbing Team Member

In early April, Stu McAleese passed his ski touring test and the last hurdle to becoming a fully fledged International Mountain Guide through the British Mountain Guides scheme. It took him three years to go through the rigorous system that also included training and assessments in summer mountaineering and rock climbing (UK), Scottish winter and alpine climbing. Stu says: "Going through the scheme requires total commitment. You have to plan your life around it but you learn so much. It is a reassuringly thorough process." He recalls that: "I'd wanted to become a guide since I knew about it from the age of 18. When you get the badge you feel so proud because these amazing people are telling you that you are good enough to have it."

DMM have unofficially supported Stuart with equipment for expeditions over the last few years and while he was completing the Guides scheme. He's been on trips to Alaska four times, Patagonia twice, Changabang's West Wall with Nick Bullock and seen plenty of winter alpine action. "It's important for me to have light kit but also when you're working it needs to be up-to-date from a professional point of view and reliablilty is key when you are using it day-in and day-out."

Stuarts's first ascent of the 1200m WI 6+ Supa Dupa ice-couloir on Alaska'a Citadel with Twid Turner and Olly Sanders was nominated for the 2003 Piolet d'Or. The year after, he returned to Alaska and enjoyed (?) what he calls "one of my best trips" and "a complete sufferfest" making the first ascent of The Perfect Storm (E4 A2+) on Mount Nevermore's East Face with Twid and Dai Lampard - the route name says all you need to know about the conditions they experienced. In 2005, Stu and Nick Bullock made the first free ascent of the mixed route Omega (Scottish VIII or M7) in very thin conditions. More recently with good build-up it has become a hard winter classic.

Looking to the future Stu says he feels a draw to Patagonia and anything on the Central Tower of Paine. From starting out climbing in the Lakes, Stu came to Wales seven years ago and is now a Llanberis resident working as a Senior Instructor at Plas y Brenin.

Photo: Stu McAleese with the badge recognised throughout the mountain world as your guarantee of professional training and competence in all aspects of mountaineering and client care. © Ray Wood