28/04/2010SE Ridge Annapurna III Expedition Thwarted

The British team attempting the unclimbed south-east ridge of Annapurna III (7555 metres) are back in Kathmandu having been unable to reach base camp.

On day four of the approach the expedition faced a glaciated wall of loose rubble with a steep technical ridge and 4400 metre snow covered col to cross. Nick Bullock and Matt Helliker decided that there was no way ahead without unjustifiable risk to the porters - the majority of who had already decided that enough was enough.   

From the outset the expedition faced problems: Jon Bracey had to pull out ten days before the departure date due to unforseen circumstances, then replacement climbing team member Pete Benson was prevented from meeting up with Nick Bullock and Matt Helliker in Nepal, after being grounded by the ash cloud (previous news).

Matt had received a text on the second day of their walk-in that Pete and the accompanying filming team were going to be a good deal longer than planned on catching them up, as they weren't going to be able to fly out from Britain until the 26th. Matt's chances of being able to do some acclimatising whilst waiting was also limited as they had his climbing boots!

Back in Pokhara, determined not to be beaten, Nick and Matt have resolved to come back in October and perhaps fly-in by helicopter. They already have permission so it may be just a matter of raising the cash to hire one!

This expedition was costly enough: $2800 for the permit, $2000 for the liason officer, £1200 for two flights, roughly $1400 for agent fees and so on. Nick writes on his blog: "It's a pretty big bill for a five day reccy that told us nothing apart from you can't get in the original way due to a glacier that no longer exists."   

For a full account of the difficulties faced on the base camp approach and the decision to turn back, read Nick Bullock's post A Collection of Clichés on the expedition blog.

Photo: Machhapuchhre (6993 m) providing a dramatic backdrop to the camp on the morning of day three during the attempt to reach base camp. © Matt Helliker (taken with a Samsung NX 10).